I caught some waves the other day. Summer is not here for long anymore, the days are getting colder, the winds are blowing harder and though I am still wearing shorts but I’ve been wearing longer pants and bringing cardi for evening out.
One thing I love about Angolans is how they have this endless zest to play and take life easy. Life in Angola is difficult, that much is obvious. But leave a boy alone, and he’ll create a big mountain of sand, to where he’ll run and perform hundreds of somersault. Give him a spare tire and a stick and he’ll run around with it. Give an adult Angolan a ball and he’ll play soccer. Give him some waves, he’ll race his friends on who can top the highest wave. It cannot be more different than me.
I go to the beach primarily to get tan. I love sun, I don’t mind the sand, and I enjoy the sea breeze. But I hardly play. It’s not until I met H that I learn how to catch some waves and bodysurf. “Never fight the sea,” he always says. “She is much stronger than you.” My merman may not be able to hoops some ball or do a perfect put, but he knows how to swim. . When we were in Mauritius, he actually preferred exercising on a stationery bike (inside the resort’s gym!) to running on the beach. But when it came to water and sea, he raced my kayak, he took me snorkeling and when I panic after swallowing so much sea water, he taught me how to lie back and let the sea massage my body.
Of course I still fear the big blue ocean. Whenever my foot touch something strange, I thought it’s a shark preying on me. I still can’t timed the waves correctly. I can never really relax and let the sea massage me. I think I’m just naturally timid. (M’s 6-yo-boy once teased me for refusing to enter their house. They own a 60-kg dog. Of course, the dog is bigger and heavier than me! What if he jumps on me and decides to sit on my chest???).
But I like how I learn a little, he, too, learns a little. I like how we complement each other. And I like how we can share a Magnum peacefully.